THE GREAT DIVIDE

By Bill Slavin

Across Tomales Bay from the town of Pt. Reyes Station lies a peninsula which is the outer most edge of California. Beyond the land is the Pacific Ocean. At this time of year, hundreds of Elephant Seals sprawl across its beaches. The males fight each other for dominance, the females give birth and suckle their young. Park docents, eager to share their knowledge, supervise you so that you don't get too close to the enormous seals.

by Bill Slavin

Completely different plant life grows on the peninsula side of Tomales Bay from the other side. The origins of the 1906 San Francisco earthquake lie between the pushing and shoving of the Pacific and North American tectonic plates located in the middle of Tomales Bay. The peninsula, formed of the same rock as the Tehachapi Mountains in Southern California, has been inching itself towards Alaska at a slow but steady pace.

by Bill Slavin

Standing at the edge of Tomales Bay reminds me again of how small we are and how fleeting our time on Earth will be.

Painting by Sam Francis, courtesy of artnet.com

On the Pt. Reyes Station side of the bay sits Mesa Refuge, former home of the artist Sam Francis, which has been transformed into a writer's residence-retreat. Opening the closet door of the upstairs bedroom reveals the signatures of some of the writers who have used the space to practice writing, to begin books, and to move away from the hustle of human life to reflect on our world. Daniel Ellsberg, Rebecca Solnit, and Michael Pollan are just a few of the writers who have opened the refuge's doors.

Every year my writers' group led by Elizabeth Fishel comes to the refuge fo a weekend respite to sit with other writers for encouragement, companionship and time. The home itself has been transformed from the white-walled residence of Sam Francis to a vibrantly colored place, a reflection of the colors that Francis used in his work. At the entrance to the refuge hangs a large sign that says "Imagine" above the walk to the door. The main meeting room has expansive windows looking out on the marshes at the edge of the bay. Turning yourself around to look at the book-lined wall of the room, you see window cutouts near the roof that allow you to view a framed scene: a bird building a nest on a branch of an old tree or reflections of the inside overlaying the trees outside.

We met with Carlos Porrata, an engaging photographer. Many years ago, he and his family drove across the country and stayed at national parks along the way. By the time they arrived in California, he had decided to change his career from therapist to park ranger. Since his retirement from Pt. Reyes National Seashore, he has devoted his time to wildlife photography in a place that has been home to him for over 40 years.

Porrata exemplifies the spirit that generates from a visit to Mesa Refuge. His photos bring you close to the world outside. The books written while at the refuge reflect the creativity, solace, and reflection garnered from a site at the edge of the continent.

Here is a list of some of the books from the Refuge that I want to read:

Our Common Wealth by Jonathan Rowe
Meant to Be Wild by Jan de Blieu
More: Population, Nature and What Women Want by Robert Engleman
Pro-Voice: How to Keep Listening When the World Wants to Fight by Aspen Baker
On Good Land by Michael Abelman
A New Map of Wonders by Caspar Henderson
The Nature Fix by Florence Williams

These are just a few of the books. A more extensive list can be found at the Mesa Refuge website:
https://mesarefuge.org

Check out the work of Sam Francis:

http://www.artnet.com/artists/sam-francis/

Information about Pt. Reyes National Seashore can be found here:
https://www.nps.gov/pore/index.htm

Elizabeth Fishel, author and writer's group leader:

https://www.elizabethfishel.com

                           
Check out the photography of Carlos Porrata:
https://www.carlosporrata.com